Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Woman puzzled over sewing machine needles

We know how tough it is to remember what needle to use with a particular fabric. If you're fortunate, you have access to some reference books or the internet to help you figure it out. If you have a smartphone, you can download the SCHMETZ App (links below). If not, you're stuck guessing. We'd like to help you out a little bit this week. Our "Cheat Sheet" below lists Fabric/Needle combinations. You can also find this guide in the SCHMETZ ABC Pocket Guide. This is by no means a complete list. Feel free to experiment. Remember, with SCHMETZ, you have choices! Sandra Betzina has written two fantastic reference books that describe a myriad of fabrics and recommendations for what needle (or needles) to use along with other sewing tips germane to a particular fabric. We're not ashamed to admit it . . . there are times when we are stumped and look to these two books for needle advice. Both books are referenced at the bottom of this post. Needle & Fabric Recommendations Artificial Leather – Microtex or Leather 70/10-100/16 Bamboo – Microtex 70/10-90/14 Batiste – Universal 60/8, 70/10 Bed-Linen, Jersey – Stretch 75/11, 90/14 Bed-Linen, Woven – Universal 70/10-100/16 Bouclé – Jersey 70/10-90/14 Brocade – Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14 Cambric – Universal 60/8, 70/10 Canvas – Jeans 90/14-110/18 Chambray – Universal 80/12, 90/14 Chenille – Universal 90/14 Chiffon – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10 Coated Material – Microtex 70/10-110/18 Cork – Microtex 70/10-90/14 Corduroy – Universal 80/12-100/16 Cotton, Knit – Jersey 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14 Cotton, Woven – Universal 70/10-90/14 Crepe – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12 Crepe-de-Chine – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12 Crinkle – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12 Denim – Jeans 70/10-110/18 Double-Face Woven – Universal 70/10-110/18 Elastic – Stretch 65/9-90/14 Felt – Universal 80/12-100/16 Flannel – Universal 80/12-110/18 Fleece – Universal 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14 Foils – Microtex 60/8-110/18 Fun Fur – Universal 70/10-100/16 or Jersey 70/11-90/14 Gabardine – Universal 70/10-100/16 Gauze – Jersey 70/10, 80/12 Georgette – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12 Jeans – Jeans 70/10-110/18 or Jeans Twin 4.0/100 Jersey – Jersey 60/8-80/12 Jersey with Elastic – Stretch 65/9-90/14 Knits – Jersey 70/10-100/16 Knits with Elastic – Jersey 70/10-100/16 or Stretch 65/9, 75/11, 90/14 Lace – Select by Fabric Type 70/10-90/14 Lamé – Microtex 60/8-90/14 Leather, Thick & Artificial Leather – Leather 100/16-120/19 Leather, Thin – Leather or Universal 70/10-90/14 Lingerie – Stretch 65/9, 75/11, 90/14 or Jersey 70/10-90/14 Linen & Half-Linen – Universal 70/10-90/14 Lycra – Stretch 65/9-90/14 or Jersey 70/10-90/14 Microfiber – Microtex 60-8-90/14 Nylon – Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14 Oil Cloth – Microtex 80/12-100/16 Organdy – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10 Organza – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10 Polyester – Universal or Microtex 60/8-100/16 Poplin – Microtex or Universal 60/8-80/12 Quilt – Quilting 75/11, 90/14 or Jeans 70/10-110/18 Rayon – Universal 70/10, 80/12 Seersucker – Universal 70/10-90/14 Sequined Fabric – Microtex 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14 Silk – Microtex 60/8-90/14 Silk Jersey – Stretch 65/9, 75/11 Sweatshirt – Jersey 70/10-90/14 Taffeta – Microtex or Universal 60/8, 70/10 Terry Cloth – Universal 80/12, 90/14 Thermovelour Fleece – Universal 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14 Tulle – Universal or Jersey 70/10, 80/12 Twill – Jeans 70/10-110/18 Velour – Universal 70/10-100/16 Velour Jersey – Stretch 75/11, 90/14 Velvet – Stretch 75/11, 90/14 or Universal 70/10-90/14 Velvet Burn-Out – Stretch 65/9-90/14 Velvet Panne – Stretch 75/11 or Universal 70/10-80/12 Vinyl – Microtex 60/8-90/14 Voile – Universal 60/8-80/12 Waxed Cloth – Microtex 80/12-100/16 Wool & Wool Blends – Universal 70/10-100/16 More Fabric Savvy, Sandra Betzina, The Taunton Press, 2004. All New Fabric Savvy, Sandra Betzina, The Taunton Press, 2017. SCHMETZ App Android - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.schmetz.needle iOs (Apple) - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/schmetz/id643064376?ls=1&mt=8